Distressing:

Tear the paper to give it a rough edge
Crumple it
Sand with sandpaper (works best with white backed paper like Leaving Prints)
Rub with metallic rub-ons
Dry brush with acrylic paint
Smear with ink
Rub with chalks
Peel off layers
Roll the edges of torn paper
Sew on your pages
Dip it, spray it, or smear it with walnut ink
Top

Sanding:

Change the face of patterned paper, cardstock and pre-made accents with easy sanding techniques. Using sandpaper, a wire brush or steel wool, just rub, buff or scratch a material's surface to wear it away.

Step 1: Place the item to be sanded on a piece of white scrap paper. (If you use a piece that's colored, its tint may transfer onto the item you're sanding.)
Step 2: Hold the sandpaper in your dominant hand while holding the item down with the other. Rub the sandpaper against the item with short strokes. The grain of the sandpaper and direction of your sanding can affect the result. While a fine grain will gently distress the surface, a coarse grain can be used in long strokes for a “scratched” look or in two different directions for a “cross-hatch” finish.
Step 3: Use a tissue to wipe away any gritty residue. Top

Tearing:

Here's a secret. The quickest way to trim cardstock, design a background or size an accent is simply tear it! Create decorative edges in seconds with just your fingertips or the aid of a specially-designed ruler. Achieve diverse looks merely by varying your tearing style.

Variation 1: For a long tear with a wide torn edge, simply grasp the cardstock in the fingertips of both hands and pull them in opposite directions.
Variation 2: For a jagged, but controlled tear, place the cardstock on a flat surface and hold it with one hand while using the thumb and index finger of your other hand to make smaller, slower tears. Top

Cutting Photo Mats:

Give photos added definition or decoration with a photo mat cut from cardstock, patterned paper or other materials. Whether you'd prefer narrow, wide, tailored or torn styles, these basic steps will help you produce a multitude of mats.

Step 1: Place your photo on cardstock or other matting material.
Step 2: Determine how wide you want the border to be, then use a pencil and ruler to create cropping lines at each corner.
Step 3: Insert the cardstock into your paper trimmer (or use a craft knife and ruler) and cut all four sides.

Variation: For fast photo mats, adhere your photo to the cardstock first, then simply “eyeball it” using the tracks in your paper trimmer to make even cuts on all four sides. Top

Walnut Ink:

Walnut ink is very easy to use, and it can be used different ways. But, it always has the same effect - it makes your piece look aged and worn.

To prepare the ink, mix 1 TBLSP of the walnut ink granules with 1 cup of hot water. If you want the ink to be lighter (more of a tea stain), add more water. If you want it thicker (like Indian ink), add less water. The mixture does not need to be refrigerated when you store it. Put a lid on it to keep it from evaporating, and it's good for a long time. Even if it DOES evaporate, no problem, just add some water to dissolve the residue in the bottom of your container and voila - more walnut ink.

To use it....try these different approaches:

•  Pour the ink into a zip lock bag, put the paper or cloth item you want to stain into the bag and let it absorb the ink until it's as dark as you like. Remove the item and lay flat on a paper towel to dry.

•  Sponge the walnut ink onto your paper

•  Use a paint brush or stipple brush to transfer the walnut ink onto your paper

•  Put the walnut ink in a spray bottle, and squirt it onto your paper to get a spattered design.

•  Get your paper nice and wet with walnut ink, then sprinkle salt on the water paper, for another interesting effect.

•  Ink your paper while it's smooth; or crumple your paper before you ink it. Crumpling your paper breaks the paper fibers, and the broken fibers will absorb and hold more ink than the smooth fibers.....so your weathered look will be even more obvious.

It's a debate on whether walnut ink is archival or not. Walnut ink made from actual walnut shells is NOT acid free. However, some manufacturers are not using actual walnuts anymore to make their ink....and they claim that their product IS acid free. The trick is knowing which is which. So, unless your container expressly states that it is acid free, I would recommend that you avoid using walnut ink near a precious photo. Top

Acid Free

Material with Ph Value of 4.0 or higher. This indicates the absence of acid, which can quickly break down paper and photographs. Top

Archival Quality

The quality of being permanent and chemically stable, indicating that the products can be used for preservation. Top

Buffered Paper

Paper that has been made more alkaline to neutralize any acids that may touch it. Top

Lignin

A Naturally occurring substance in wood that can break down into acids over time. Paper with less than 1% lignin is considered lignin free. Top

Newspaper clippings

Make a photo copy of the newspaper article on acid free buffered paper. Don't forget to record the title and date of the article where it appeared. If you want to store the original article, spray it with de-acidification spray and mount it on buffered paper and place it in the sheet protector. Store it separate from other photos to prevent acid migration. Top

P.H. Testing

When you are not sure if paper is acid free and safe you can test it with a PH testing pen. To use the pen simply draw a line on the back of the item you are using or in a concealed area. Observe the color the line dries to determine weather there is any acid in the product. PH testing pens are not always 100% accurate. You can request the information from the manufacturer of the product if needed. Top

Red-Eye Problem

Try to take photos with lots of light in the room. As people to look to the right or left just slightly to avoid looking directly into the camera. Some cameras are available with red-eye reduction. But if all of this fails there are still red-eye pens that will help remove the red-eyes. All you need to do is dab the pen until the red color is gone. Top

Adding color

If you are adding color to a photo or page make sure you start with the lightest color. You can always add more color but it is almost impossible to take color back off. Top

Chalks

To apply decorating chalks to your page, you can use a sponge-tipped tool (similar to an eye shadow applicator), a cotton swab or even your finger tips. Use a circular motion to add the colors. Use the lighter colors first. Top

Colored Pencils

Colored pencils have been around forever with a great selection of colors. They pick up the texture of the paper to create great effects. The are not as bold as markers so the give you a more subtle effect. You can layer different colors to get new tones. You can create a stipple effect by using small dots. Try experimenting to find the fun ways to make neat effects on paper. Top

Watercolor Pencils

If you like colored pencils then try watercolor pencils. The basic method is to draw and color on a page with dry pencils like you would with colored pencils. To create softer shades color with the pencil first on the page. Then use a damp brush or swab to blend the colors. Make sure that you don't have too much water on the brush. If you want the color bold dip the tip of the pencil in water and then use it on your page. Top

Thermal Embossing

Thermal (or Heat) Embossing add the elegant touch to your stamped images by giving the ink shiny, raise appearance. It involves two products Ink and embossing powder.

•  Ink- The two best inks for embossing are pigment ink and embossing ink. Both stay wet long enough for the powder to stick to them. They both come in a variety of colors. Pigment ink can be used just as stamp ink or embossing ink. But embossing ink can only be used for thermal embossing. You can find both kinds of ink on pads or in pen form.

•  Embossing Powder- Embossing powder is purchase usually in small jars and comes in a variety of colors, including metallic colors. Clear embossing powder is favored for using over colored ink.

•  How to Thermal Emboss an Image-

•  Lay a piece of scrap paper over your work surface to catch the powder.

•  Ink the stamp you want to use with a pen or ink pad. Then stamp the image on the page.

•  Pour embossing powder generously over the stamped ink while still wet. You can save any of the extra powder. After covering the ink tip your paper to get rid of the excess powder. A brush may be needed to remove stray particles.

•  Now take your head gone and hold it a few inches away from the image and slowly move it back and forth. If you don't have a heat gun you can use a toaster oven. A hair dryer does not get hot enough and usually blows the powder off of the inked surface. Don't get the paper to close to the heat source or you will scorch the paper. When the powder is melted it will have a shiny raised appearance.

•  Pour your unused powder back into the jar for your next project. Top

Dry Embossing

Another type of embossing is dry embossing, which you actually make the pop up. To create this type of embossing you will need a stencil, a embossing stylus, and a light table or similar back light (sunlight through a window works good).

If you have a matching stamp for your embossing stamp the page first where you want the image.

Place the stencil on the light box with the design face down. Then lay the paper over the stencil face down. Make sure if you are using the stamp pattern first that they match up with each other. Use the stylus to trace over the paper. You can also use the recessed instead so that image is indented instead of raised.

You can turn your ordinary page into a elegant page with just a little embossing. Top

Sponging and Stenciling

Sponging and stenciling are techniques frequently used with rubber stamping. To use these techniques simply dab a sponge in ink or paint and lightly dab it onto the paper. You can sponge with different stencils and different texture sponges for a variety of effects. Top

Cropping Photos

There are lots of ways to crop Photos and it would take too long to tell you all of them. Use your imagination. Our only suggestion would be is keeping a back up of the photos you crop. Be it the negatives, on a disk or make a copy of the original (especially if it a very old photo) so that if your or your family members want to use the photo in another book you still have someway to make a copy of the original. Top

A little Bit of Do's and Don'ts 

•  Don't store your photos in the older magnetic albums with the sticky pages and the thin film that covers them. The albums contain high acid content and can ruin your photos. If they are in them remove them and store them in envelopes or boxes until you are ready to use them.

Do- remove them and store them in envelopes or boxes until you are ready to use them. You can mark the envelopes and boxes so you know exactly what photos are in them and you can easily pull out the right ones when you are ready to scrap them.

•  Don't crop or mat every photo. Full Size photos add alot to a page and you might cut out some of the creative background that makes the photo interesting.

Do- leave in some of the background that makes the photo interesting, like that old car that you think is so ugly…it will be interesting twenty years from now! It would be fun to journal about that old car also.

•  Don't use Ballpoint pens to label the back of your photos. This can cause smearing onto other photos and creases in the photo.

Do-Use a photo labeling pencil instead wherever possible.

•  Don't let the stickers and Diecuts detract from you page by adding too many of them. The photo and the written journaling should be the main focus of your page.

Do-write yourself notes as you take pictures to describe the places you are and the feelings you had when you took the picture so that it will refresh your memory when you are putting your photos into albums.

•  Don't feel that you have to use every photo on you page.

Do-choose the best of your photos and store the rest in boxes for another time or to give to your family and friends.

•  Don't use Rubber Cement - it will cause your photos to become brittle and deteriorate, some new rubber cements are ok but you must read the labels of each kind.

Do- use any adhesive that is labeled for memory keeping or is archival quality. There are lots of choices on the market now and manufacturers like to tell you.

•  Don't use cellophane tape or masking tape they contain acids and other elements that are damaging to your scrapbook.

Do-use any tape runner or photo mounting tape that is labeled for memory keeping or is archival safe. Again look at the labels carefully.

•  Don't use spray adhesives, they are flammable, and the fumes are very harmful, along with being very messy.

•  Don't use anything that has an odor, if it emits an odor it usually means it is harmful for your photographs.

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